More than one way exists to deal with diffraction. You would somehow like to stop the diffraction from any obstructions, but how?įigure 2: Normalized response difference, felt vs. You’re familiar with this latter aspect of reflections. Box placement and room treatment are used to control that to a degree. The diffraction can’t be controlled by any kind of box placement or room treatment. It arrives at the listener position, altering the perception of the sound, since its arrival is close enough in time that you perceive it as being part of the main sound wave.ĭelays that are longer (such as reflections from walls) are perceived differently and are not confused with direct sound. This interference is delayed in time from the main sound wave and is a function of the distance to the diffracting obstruction (such as the baffle edge). This causes interference with the main sound wave that is traveling outward toward the listener. The results of attempts at diffraction control were a bit surprising.Ī sound wave will diffract when it encounters one of the obstructions mentioned. These latter have been of more interest to me recently as I now prefer a baffle that offsets the drivers (a “stepped” baffle) to attain a better phase relationship between drivers in order to improve the crossover design. Obstructions are primarily other drivers (midranges or woofers) and baffle edges and protrusions. This article shows examples of diffraction and a commonly used, yet inexpensive, method to control it.Ĭabinet edge diffraction, which is unavoidable, is the result of any obstruction or cabinet boundary (edge) that changes how the sound wave moves across the surface of the baffle. Past articles in Speaker Builder and audioXpress have dealt with the issue. Judicious use of the right kind of felt is all that is necessary. There are many differing positions on what to do about it - if anything at all - but diffraction can be largely controlled. You’ll probably find a thread on it any time you visit one of the major boards. The height should be way bigger than the width.Cabinet edge diffraction is a hot topic on Internet message boards. There should not be space between the letter elements. Let’s start off with an example of the letter A. Now taking all the characteristics mentioned above in consideration, we will create out first bubble letter. Like written in my general graffiti tutorial, the process always starts with lines. The basic construction of bubble-style graffiti letters the shadows are not connected to the letters – there are no shadow blocksġ.
Wings, drips and underlines can optionally be used as decorative elements.The openings within letters („eyes“ and „counters“ are synonyms) are reduced to dots and/or small lines.No straight lines or right angles on any letter.No space between vertical planks like M, N as well.There is no space between the planks of letters such as F and E.
This style does not leave plenty of scope for variation and creativity, but can be executed very quickly and thus is good for learning the basic design principles of drawing graffiti. Letters in bubble-style look like they have been blown up with air – like balloons. Bubble-style graffiti letters Bubble Style